Hamburg Mussels Soup - Hamburger Muschelsuppe

[Olga Drozd]

Hamburg Mussels Soup - Hamburger Muschelsuppe

6 pounds mussels in the shell (about 3 1/2 dozen large mussels), well scrubbed and bearded
1 quart cold water
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine
1 medium size leek, trimmed, washed well, and coarsely chopped
1 medium size celery rib, coarsely chopped (include some green tops)
1 small carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
8 medium size flat leaf parsley sprigs
2 large whole bay leaves
5 juniper berries
2 whole cloves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup Riesling or other dry white wine
2 Extra-Large egg yolks
1/4 cup creme fraiche or heavy cream
2 to 3 teaspoons lemon juice (or to taste)

Place the mussels and water in a large heavy kettle.  Set, uncovered, over high heat and bring to a boil.  Adjust the heat so the water bubbles continuously but not too furiously, cover the kettle, and cook just until the mussels open--about 5 minutes; discard any that do not open.  With a slotted spoon, transfer the mussels to a large bowl and reserve. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve lined with double thickness of cheesecloth wrung out in cool water.  Shuck the mussels, discarding the shells and reserving the meat.

Melt the butter in a large heavy saucepan over moderate heat, add the leek, celery, and carrot, and saute 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until translucent.  Add the reserved mussel broth, the parsley, bay leaves, juniper berries, cloves, and salt and bring to a boil.  Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently, then simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Strain the broth into a large bowl, discarding the solids, and return the broth to the pan.  Add the wine and reserved mussels and bring just to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring now and then.

Meanwhile, whisk together the egg yolks and creme fraiche.  Blend a little of the hot mussel broth into the egg mixture, then stir back into the pan and cook, stirring constantly, over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes longer.  Stir in lemon juice to taste, ladle into soup plates, and serve at once.  Makes 6 servings.