Baked Persian Rice with Chicken (Tahchin)

[Olga Drozd]

Baked Persian Rice with Chicken (Tahchin)

The goal in this recipe is fluffy separate grains of rice and a tasty crust that has a gentle hint of orange, though in this case the bottom layer of rice is thicker and studded with small pieces of chicken.  The baked rice is a golden round about 2 inches high.  It is inverted onto a large plate, the well browned crust forming the top surface, then sliced into wedges.  Pieces of succulent chicken are buried in the rice and crust.  The crispy, crunchy layer of browned rice that forms on the tahchin as it bakes is called the tahdig and is highly valued as a delicacy. NOTE: For this recipe I used boneless and skinless chicken thighs. To loosen the marinate from the chicken after it marinated in the refrigerator I microwaved it for 1 minute then removed the chicken pieces. Instead of dried reconstituted orange peel I used a zester and zested fresh orange peel threads and then chopped it fine.  I didn't have a 12 inch casserole so I used a 10 inch casserole about 3 inches deep. FILLING: 2 Tablespoons butter or vegetable oil (I used 1 Tbs. butter melted and 1 Tbs. oil) 1 3/4 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1 to 2 inch pieces and trimmed of fat 1 large onion, minced 1/4 teaspoon white pepper 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon salt Generous teaspoon of dried orange peel (see Note) 1/2 cup plain yogurt (whole-milk or 2%) 2 large eggs with a pinch of salt RICE: 3 cups basmati rice Water 2 Tablespoons salt (divided) About 3 to 4 Tablespoons melted butter to drizzle top of casserole

At least 5 hours before you wish to serve the dish, prepare the filling.  Heat the butter or oil in a large heavy nonreactive skillet over medium heat.  Add the chicken and onion and cook for 10 minutes.  Add the lemon juice, salt and pepper, cover, and simmer for 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the dried orange peel: Bring a small pot of water to a vigorous boil, toss in the peel, and boil for 5 minutes, then drain.  In the same pot, bring another 2 cups water to a boil and add the peel then remove from the heat and let stand for at least 10 minutes. Drain and coarsely chop.

When the chicken is cooked, remove from the heat and stir in the yogurt and orange peel.  Cool to room temperature, then cover and place in the refrigerator to marinate for 2 to 24 hours.

Wash the rice thoroughly and put it in a large bowl with 8 cups water mixed with 1 Tablespoon of the salt. Let soak for 30 minutes to 3 hours.

When ready to proceed, preheat the oven to 375º F.

Drain the soaked rice.

In a large pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a vigorous boil.  Add the remaining 1 Tablespoon salt, then gradually sprinkle in the drained rice.  Stir gently to prevent sticking, and bring back to the boil. After the rice has been boiling for 2 minutes, test for doneness.  The rice is ready when the outside is tender but there remains a slight uncooked resistance at the core of the grain.  If the core of the grain is brittle, it's not done enough.  Continue to check the rice until done, usually about 4 minutes, then drain in the sieve and rinse with tepid to cool water (to prevent it from cooking any more).

Butter or oil a wide (12-inch diameter) casserole or heavy ovenproof pot.

Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade and set meat aside.

Break the eggs with a pinch of salt into a small bowl and beat well.  Stir into the marinade mixture. (If you wish add 2 Tablespoons extra  yogurt if you feel that there is not enough marinade) Mix in 3 cups of the cooked rice into the marinade/egg mixture.  Spread the mixed rice mixture over the bottom and up the sides of casserole or pot.  Distribute the chicken pieces over the rice, then add the remaining rice to cover, smoothing it level. Drizzle on the melted butter.

Bake, tightly covered with a lid or aluminum foil, for 40 minutes.  Lower the heat to 350º F. and bake for 1 1/4 hours longer, .

Just before removing the casserole from the oven, fill your kitchen sink with about 2 inches of cold water.

Remove the casserole from the oven and place in the cold water for several minutes, this will help keep the rice from sticking to the pot.  Slide a thin-bladed knife along the sides of the pot to loosen the rice. If you have a flexible spatula then slide it under the bottom to loosen. Place a large plate over the pot and invert; the rice should drop onto the plate (this is easiest with two people). Serve cut into wedges.  Serves 6 to 8.  Accompany with moist side dishes such as Oasis Salad, a Yogurt Sauce and a plate of greens and fresh herbs such as tarragon, mint, scallions, and salad greens.

OASIS SALAD:

1 cup coarsely chopped red or white (diakon or icicle) radish
1 cup coarsely chopped peeled English cucumber
2 cups ripe tomato chunks
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 to 1/2 cup loosely packed fresh coriander leaves, coarsely chopped

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and toss gently to blend.  Serve at room temperature.

YOGURT SAUCE (LEBAN):

Basic sauce tops everything--meats, fish poultry, pasta, rice, vegetables and even sandwiches.

2 garlic cloves, crushed
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 cup plain yogurt

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl.  Mix well.  Refrigerate to chill.  Makes 1 cup.

VARIATIONS:

•  Mint-Yogurt Sauce: Add 1 teaspoon crushed dried leaf mint.
•  Tomato-Yogurt Sauce:  Add 1 Tablespoon tomato puree or 1 teaspoon tomato paste. Serve on seafood salads.
•  Yogurt Dressing:  Add 1 teaspoon vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon lemon juice or vinegar.  Serve as a topping on fried vegetables or as a dressing in salads.

YOGURT SAUCE: LABANIYYA
Serves 6

Milk, both fresh and sour, and particularly in the form of laban (yogurt), is a very ancient ingredient in the cooking of the Arabs. In some soups, laban is added at the end of the cooking and allowed to become hot, without boiling. In this case, there is little danger of it curdling. When laban is called for in the actual cooking, however, precautions must be taken in order that it does not curdle or separate. This is done by gently stirring over low heat until it comes to a gentle boil.

2 eggs, beaten
3 cups laban (plain yogurt)
3 cups cold water
2 tablespoons butter
2 cloves garlic, crushed
salt to taste
2 tablespoons dried mint

Place eggs and yogurt in a saucepan and stir until well blended. Add cold water and stir well. Place over medium heat and, with a wooden spoon, stir gently in one direction until mixture comes to a boil; then reduce heat to very low.

Melt butter in a small saucepan and add to it the garlic, salt, and mint. Saute over medium heat until garlic turns golden brown; the stir garlic mixture into yogurt sauce and taste for seasoning. Remove from heat; serve hot as soup or as a sauce for other foods.

NOTE: Dried strips of sour orange peel or tangerine peel are used for flavoring and garnish in Persian, Chinese, and other cuisines.  Dried orange peel is available from Middle Eastern grocery stores or mail order sources.  It keeps indefinitely in a dry place.  Small strips of fresh orange zest can be substituted.